The beautiful East Algarve
Ria Formosa
The coast from Faro to almost the Spanish border is lined with a system of white sand barrier islands that protects the Ria Formosa, aptly named the "beautiful river", but really more of a tidal lagoon. It's protected as a Natural Park and teems with bird and sea life; tourist activity is secondary to the wildlife and work of the fishermen and shellfish farmers. It’s possible to take guided walks and boat trips, or simply to explore the area by yourself; look out for chameleons, flamingos and seahorses as well as dolphins and migrating birds.
The beaches
The beaches of the East Algarve make for a very different experience from those more centrally located. This is partly because most of them can only be accessed via boat, adding an extra layer of adventure. The water is usually noticeably warmer here than on the more westerly beaches and the water is generally calmer too.
The beaches in the East tend to be referred to as ‘Islands’ due to their positioning within the Ria Formosa Natural Park. The first ‘island’ to mention is Barril. To get onto the beach here one must either take a delightful walk of a kilometer or so along the railway line through the Ria Formosa scrubland, or jump on the small train that runs regularly. There is a zone featuring cafés serving food and ice creams, but after passing that area, just stretches of sand dunes, wild grasses, the Atlantic and beyond.
The island of Tavira is quite a different matter. It is alive with families & young people enjoying the camping facilities & multiple restaurants. The beaches here are seemingly never ending & the calmness of the waters is ideal for those young families. The camp site is large & well stocked with hygiene facilities, supermarkets, & pine trees. To get to Tavira island enjoy the short ferry ride from in the town or the ‘Quatro Aguas’ ferry dock just outside of Tavira. (Tickets cost around €2 Last ferry back at 8pm in summer, earlier in the low season). This 11km long island also features a reserved area for naturists.
A little further along is the village of Manta Rota. There is a broad ramped access and plenty of parking. The sea here is generally calm & the village provides play areas for kiddies. Neighbouring Monte Gordo – almost on the Spanish border – is a large developed town and Monte Gordo Beach is an amazingly long & deep beach that still gets incredibly busy in July & August. It features the typical attractions one would hope for from a seaside – cafés, ice creams, & the usual shops selling blow-up whales & sun hats.
Within walking distance from Manta Rota is Altura. This beach has a super family-friendly restaurant with wonderful food & good prices. There are also activities in this area such as pedalos for hire, & a football pitch that doubles as a volleyball court to be made use of.
Next stop – Vila Real de Santo António. This area features a wonderful stretch of nature reserve in which one can shelter from the heat of the day & the summer crowds. The beach area boasts no restaurants, cafés, or rentable water sports.
If you enjoy this sort of quasi-isolation then you should put Fabrica beach on your list of must-visits. It is a small, hard to spot beach that must be reached by boat from the village of the same name, close to the village of Cacela Velha.
Alcoutim.
Our Mystic East is the borderland. The Guadiana river separates the Algarve – where humility is regarded as a strength – from brasher Spain. Inland, it’s possible to meander for miles through enchanted valleys, hear birdsong, see few people and find peace. The east’s coastal margin is where the ocean is tamed by the sand islands, salt pans and azure lagoons of the Ria Formosa natural park, where flamingos and dolphins abound.
It’s worth heading inland to pretty Alcoutim for the drive alone. Cistus, wild orchids and house-high castor oil plants fringe the roadside. Alcoutim’s slim, cobbled streets tumble down to this gorgeous bend of the Guadiana with its peace and sandy river beaches.
Vila Real de Santo Antonio
The Guadiana meets the sea at Vila Real de Santo António. Elegant, once-wealthy and still popular with Spaniards perusing bargain household textiles, Vila Real is where the ferry chugs across to Ayamonte in Spain.
Cacela Velha
Once the home of 12th-century Sufi poets drunk on divine love, Cacela Velha is a jewel-like three-bar, two-restaurant seaside hamlet on a cliff top overlooking market gardens, oyster beds and inviting, strollable sandy islands. "
( The Guardian - 13 June 2015 )
